Left:The State Vehicle Inspection sticker in question. Right: David K. Langford’s original image.
Texas-based photographer David K. Langford is suing the state of Texas over allegations that the Department of Public Safety ripped off a copyrighted image he made in 1984. Langford recently discovered that a version of his image was being used as the main design on approximately 4.5 million vehicle inspection stickers in 15 Texas counties. The inspection sticker was originally designed by a Texas prison inmate who converted the image in question into a silhouette for use on the sticker. The inmate pulled the image from a copy of Texas Parks and Wildlife Magazine.What do you think? Does Langford deserve compensation for the use of his work? Or is the state of Texas in the right?
Play With Perspective for a Unique Image
An exaggerated angle creates humor in a portrait. A sure fire technique for great portraits? Look for an unusual point of view or vantage point and put your camera there. When Scott Bourke, a 29-year-old IT administrator from Brisbane, Australia, decided to produce, as he calls it, a “self sportrait,” he picked an unconventional point-of-view: that of a golf ball. Placing your camera that low for a full-figure portrait, however, introduces challenges relating to composition, focus, and lighting. READ MORE
Content Aware CS5
We’ve all taken images that are perfect except for some unwanted element in the frame. Whether we had no choice but to compose it into the frame—or it just “snuck” in—removing objects from an image typically involves detailed masking and careful cloning. The newest version of Photoshop CS5 addresses this time-consuming work with a powerful new feature called Content-Aware Fill. Don’t look for it in the menus; accessing this capability is as simple as hitting the Delete key or selecting this mode with the Spot Healing Brush. Content-Aware Fill works by analyzing the pixels surrounding those you select and “imagining” what would be there if the object wasn’t. It replaces the object you want to remove with details that match the lighting and textures of the surrounding area. It’s amazing how well it does this. READ MORE
Photographer Bruno Bisang AMAZING
I found a pretty awesome photographer that uses light and low key setting to his advantage. I love his approach and his outcome. Bruno Bisang was born in 1952 and spent much of his youth in Ascona, a picturesque little town in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland. When he was 19 he attended the School of Applied Arts for Photography in Zurich, wich was followed by a photographic apprenticeship. Since 1979 Bruno Bisang has worked as a freelance photographer, first in Zurich, and then for a time in Milan and Munich. Now he works between Milan, New York, Zurich and Paris for a renowned clientele.
Photographer Michael David Adams
Michael David Adams work is phenomenal to me! His work is out of this word and is the direction that I want to go toward as a photographer. Check his website out to see his awesome work!
iPhone Light Studio App Teaches Studio Lighting Basics
This is by far one of the niftiest photography iPhone apps we’ve seen—Light Studio teaches all the basics of shooting portraits with studio lighting through tutorials and a neat 3D virtual studio.
The first set of tutorials explains all the different types of lighting and positioning available when photographing someone in a studio. We found it to be extremely helpful that the app also provides sample images to go along with each different type of lighting. The tutorials also offer advice on when to use different lighting techniques and what kinds of faces they each flatter.
But by far the coolest part of the app is the interactive 3D lab, which allows users to move, reposition and change the power output of up to the three virtual lights in a virtual studio. As adjustments are made, one can even see how the lighting affects a virtual model’s face. Additionally, once you get the lighting just right, you can simply take a screen shot and save it as a reference for later.
For $1.99, this app is likely to become a any studio photographer’s best friend.
3 Post Processing Tips from Scott Bourne for photographers...
There are so many post-processing tools for digital photographers today that it’s easy to get seduced into thinking that this filter or that plug-in will solve all of our problems. In some cases, those filters and plug-ins can be a huge help. But there are a few tips and tricks I use to get the most out of the existing post-processing tools I have, that improve quality without extra add-ons.
These apply mostly to Photoshop or Aperture but may be applicable to other programs as well. They are very generic and intended to teach concepts, not specific push-button workflow.
1. Work with different size views. I’ve taught thousands of photographers how to use Photoshop and/or Aperture. One common mistake I see when looking over their shoulders is the failure to look at their image using different size views. They’ll work with the image that shows up on the screen and call it a day. It’s important to change your view size as you work. Sure many people know to zoom in for critical work. But fewer know to zoom out – past the normal view, to get a different perspective. Zoom in AND out. But most importantly, try to view your image at its final print size. See it as it will print. Some corrections that seemed like a big deal at 400% aren’t as important when viewed at print size.
2. Don’t over sharpen. Sharpen last. Sharpen for the output. The pixel peepers have pushed the photo community over the edge when it comes to sharpness. There’s almost a cult-like desire to have everything razor sharp. It’s not necessary or even helpful. When you sharpen a photograph, you’ll get the BEST results by sharpening for output. This means that if you’re sharpening for a 640 pixel jpeg that will only be viewed on a website, you’ll need a different amount of sharpening for a 30×40 canvas print that’s intended to hang in a museum. Don’t sharpen because you think you need to. Sharpen because you have to, and only where you need it, and only for output. Since you may need to make different size prints or prints that will be printed on different materials, how can you think that sharpening for a “one-size fits all” approach could work? It can’t. I know because I’ve tried. Sharpen carefully.
3. Think like a darkroom technician. I spent 18 years printing in a wet darkroom before I ever heard of Photoshop. This really gave me a leg up when it came to post-processing my first photos. Back then, there were no workshops, books, online tutorials or anything else to rely to learn Photoshop, etc. I tested everything. Today, when it’s much easier and less expensive to do so, few photographers test. I say test everything. Test every paper and ink combo, every profile, every filter and plugin you use in Photoshop or Lightroom or Aperture, etc. Test your brains out. Know your abilities and limitations. Then the creative side of post-processing can come out from behind the uncertainty of what’s going on.
Hopefully these three ideas get you going in a new or better direction. Instead of the usual – “Do this – then Do that” tutorial, I wanted to give you something to actually think about. Concepts can be much more valuable than workflows, sort of like seed corn can be more valuable than corn on the cob. Good luck.
These apply mostly to Photoshop or Aperture but may be applicable to other programs as well. They are very generic and intended to teach concepts, not specific push-button workflow.
1. Work with different size views. I’ve taught thousands of photographers how to use Photoshop and/or Aperture. One common mistake I see when looking over their shoulders is the failure to look at their image using different size views. They’ll work with the image that shows up on the screen and call it a day. It’s important to change your view size as you work. Sure many people know to zoom in for critical work. But fewer know to zoom out – past the normal view, to get a different perspective. Zoom in AND out. But most importantly, try to view your image at its final print size. See it as it will print. Some corrections that seemed like a big deal at 400% aren’t as important when viewed at print size.
2. Don’t over sharpen. Sharpen last. Sharpen for the output. The pixel peepers have pushed the photo community over the edge when it comes to sharpness. There’s almost a cult-like desire to have everything razor sharp. It’s not necessary or even helpful. When you sharpen a photograph, you’ll get the BEST results by sharpening for output. This means that if you’re sharpening for a 640 pixel jpeg that will only be viewed on a website, you’ll need a different amount of sharpening for a 30×40 canvas print that’s intended to hang in a museum. Don’t sharpen because you think you need to. Sharpen because you have to, and only where you need it, and only for output. Since you may need to make different size prints or prints that will be printed on different materials, how can you think that sharpening for a “one-size fits all” approach could work? It can’t. I know because I’ve tried. Sharpen carefully.
3. Think like a darkroom technician. I spent 18 years printing in a wet darkroom before I ever heard of Photoshop. This really gave me a leg up when it came to post-processing my first photos. Back then, there were no workshops, books, online tutorials or anything else to rely to learn Photoshop, etc. I tested everything. Today, when it’s much easier and less expensive to do so, few photographers test. I say test everything. Test every paper and ink combo, every profile, every filter and plugin you use in Photoshop or Lightroom or Aperture, etc. Test your brains out. Know your abilities and limitations. Then the creative side of post-processing can come out from behind the uncertainty of what’s going on.
Hopefully these three ideas get you going in a new or better direction. Instead of the usual – “Do this – then Do that” tutorial, I wanted to give you something to actually think about. Concepts can be much more valuable than workflows, sort of like seed corn can be more valuable than corn on the cob. Good luck.
Apple Updates iLife Suite to Version 11 – iPhoto Makeover
UPDATE: Oct 30, 2010 Apple issued an update to iPhoto
(This update addresses issues that, in extremely rare cases, could result in data loss when upgrading a library from an earlier version of iPhoto. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4431)
Apple’s iPhoto is one of the most popular photo editing and sorting programs in the world. After all, it’s free with every new Mac. Not everyone wants or needs the power of Photoshop, Aperture or Lightroom. Still others simply can’t justify the cost of those programs. In steps iPhoto. iPhoto hadn’t seen any major enhancements in quite a while. But recently, that changed. Apple introduced iLife 11 – which I bought and installed yesterday.
iPhoto’s biggest new feature is mega-full screen mode. You can now browse, edit, and share your photos full screen. You can do everything in full screen mode. It’s beautiful to look at.
There have been enhancements to the Facebook engine and other sharing like better email. Emailing photos got even easier. You can now email directly from iPhoto. Apple now offers eight different themes you can use to send email photos and it works with just about every popular email service.
The slideshows are quicker and better. There are also some very attractive new themes. The new slideshows even take advantage of iPhtoo’s face detection capability. I have to say that while I own just about every slide show program on the market, the free on in iPhoto is pretty darn good and just got a bunch better.
10 Photography Quotes that You Should Know
3. “ Beauty can be seen in all things, seeing and composing the beauty is what separates the snapshot from the photograph. – Matt Hardy
4. “ Nothing happens when you sit at home. I always make it a point to carry a camera with me at all times…I just shoot at what interests me at that moment. – Elliott Erwitt
5. “ Which of my photographs is my favorite? The one I’m going to take tomorrow. – Imogen Cunningham
6. “ You’ve got to push yourself harder. You’ve got to start looking for pictures nobody else could take. You’ve got to take the tools you have and probe deeper. – William Albert Allard
7. “ If I saw something in my viewfinder that looked familiar to me, I would do something to shake it up. – Garry Winogrand
8. “ I always thought good photos were like good jokes. If you have to explain it, it just isn’t that good. – Anonymous
9. “ Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop. – Ansel Adams
10. “It can be a trap of the photographer to think that his or her best pictures were the ones that were hardest to get. – Timothy Allen
7 Tips to posing a model...
#1. Keep the poses simple. If your model can’t easily put her body into the pose you’re suggesting, it’s not a good pose. Poses should flow naturally and when a model is in a good pose, it shouldn’t look like a pose at all. She should look at ease and if the viewer is thinking more about the pose than the model, it’s probably not a great pose.
#2. Avoid dated poses. Just as lighting techniques change over time, so do poses. Take a look at magazines from the fifties or sixties. Not only will the lighting, hairstyles, and makeup have a dated look but many poses, will have a cheesecake or pinup style that can be fun to make these days only for retro-oriented models. Current styles are more sensual, provocative and to overuse that word again–natural.
#3. Let your model sit or lean on a prop. Nothing is harder for a beginning model to do than standing in front of a blank seamless paper and striking different poses. Look around and see if you model has something to lean or sit on. You’ll be surprised how quickly a model’s pose becomes elegant if she’s given a comfortable prop to work with.
#4. Hide your model’s flaws. No subject is perfect and you can fix some flaws with posing. Heavier subjects should never be posed with their shoulders square to the camera. It’s also a good idea to ask them to shift their weight to the foot that’s farthest from the camera to avoid a flat-footed pose that makes a subject looks like they are just standing there—even if they’re just standing there! Conversely, you can pose thinner subjects so they’re square to the camera to give their body more weight and depth.
#5. Just as poses can hide flaws, they can also emphasize your model’s best attributes. Look for her strong points and accent those. Are her eyes particularly beautiful? Does she have long shapely legs or long, flowing hair? These are all aspects to consider.
#6. Don’t get fussy about posing a subject. To show a subject how to stand, I’ll put myself in a pose but let her give me her interpretation. Once she’s comfortable, I select camera angles that accent a model’s good points and minimize anything she’s self-conscious about. Never just point the camera and hope that’s the right shot. Move around and watch the background too. The most technically perfect photographs made with the most expensive equipment won’t make up for the look—you’ll see it in her eyes—of a subject who isn’t part of the creative process.
#7. One way to increase communications is to show the model some of the images on your digital camera’s LCD screen as you make them. I don’t show her every shot, just the ones I like and that often gets her motivated resulting in better images. Seeing how great she looks also gives her confidence in your abilities and makes the session progress smoother.
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